Thibault Liger-Belair, Les Saint Georges, Premier Cru, 2018

Thibault Liger-Belair has produced one of the tighter, more serious expression of this celebrated Premier Cru in 2018, finding texture, tannin and structure in his 74-year-old plantings. Hail halved the crop here, which may have been a bonus as far as quality as concerned, because this has real poise, balance and intensity with spice and tobacco notes and underlying minerality.